Before sending any of your media items, please e-mail me using the Contact Form with any questions or details about your order, or call me at (501) 476-0501. I want to be sure I can process your media before you send it to me. For example, I can't transfer 16mm film, or scan photos over 11" wide under any of the listed service plans.
If you can't drop off your items in person, please send them using FedEx or UPS to:
Fairfield Bay Photography
120 Village Place Dr. Ste D
Fairfield Bay, AR 72088
I will certainly accept US Postal Mail, though the other services are preferred.
Please review the FAQs at Preparing To Ship Your Media for money saving tips and packing instructions.
Be absolutely sure to send a description of what you are sending, and what levels of service you require. You can use the Cost Estimator form - it will optionally send you an e-mail with the details that you can print and include in your package. If you would like me to call you to discuss your order, please let me know, or just call me.
I currently have the capability to transfer Regular 8mm, Super 8mm and Super 8mm with sound to digital movies.
Here's a guide to determining what kind of film your home movies are on: 8mm Film Format Identification Guide
Transparent Media includes Slides, Negatives and Film. Transparent Media is translucent, meaning that light shines through the media. Scanning transparent media involves the use of a light source positioned behind the slide, negative or film, that shines the light onto a sensor of some type through the media. The sensor is then able to capture the image.
Reflective Media is anything that is opaque and reflects the light. In this case, a light source shines directly onto the media, and the reflected light is captured by the sensor. This applies to photographs, magazine pages, newspaper, or anything that is opaque.
In some cases, you can scan transparent media using a reflective scanner. However, the image result will be a negative of the original, and you will need to convert it to a positive in your image editing software.
Yes! If you send slides with damaged mounts, I will remove your film media from the old mount, and place it into a brand new, high-quality plastic mount. During this repair, your slide is professionally cleaned and lubricated to remove any debris or mold. There is an additional fee for repair. Please do not send damaged slides unless you want them repaired.
Bent or separating mounting frames, slides with mold or debris stuck to the film, and slides with badly warped or otherwise damaged film are all considered "damaged" for this purpose.
If you have "Super Slides", it's likely that I will not be able to repair them quickly. It is very hard to find replacement mounts for Super Slides. If you send damaged Super Slides, and they require new mounts, I will likely have to hold onto your slides until I can locate new mounts. They may be expensive for me to purchase (compared to standard 35mm mounts). I will most certainly notify you of this beforehand.
In most cases, yes. If your photograph is badly deteriorated, I may need to do some physical repair before scanning. This will usually involve adhering your photo to a solid, clean substructure (card stock or heavy paper). This prevents further damage from handling and scanning.
Once your photo has been scanned, it will very likely require some retouching. Retouching can range from removing scratches and simple creases or folds that do not affect a subject's face or other detail area, to complete reconstruction of a face or other important area of the subject in the photo. In the case of a completely missing face, I will obviously need another photo where that person's face is undamaged. The same goes for any completely missing or unrepairable area of required detail. In minor cases, damaged areas can be cloned away, blurred out, or replaced from another photo. Scratches that do not affect a face or an area of great detail are easily removed.
Retouching and repair will require an additional payment. Please be sure to contact me for a quote. You can enter instructions to that effect on the order form.
Yes! In fact, each 50' length of film will get two free splices. It's quite common for old 8mm movie film to have breaks or damaged areas. We always give two free splices because it's normal and should be expected.
Further splicing will be charged per splice. For details, see the pricing page.
Yes! It's no problem scanning individual frames of film. Because it requires more labor to properly align the individual frames, any such work will be charged Premium Service pricing, even if Economy Service was selected (only for those individual frames, of course).
Most people don't have a need to scan all of their old photos to digital. It's best to sort through your photos and select the ones you really want to share. If you need to preserve your old memories, then by all means, send them all.
Photos should be organized in the way you want them on your CD or Flash Drive. You can sort them by date, by event (like a wedding or party), or by location - it's up to you. Your photos will be stored in separate folders, one each for each bundle of photos you deliver.
Please remove your photos from albums or other storage media before delivering them. Sometimes photos will stick in albums, and I can't be held responsible for any damage that may occur when removing them. Please be sure there is no sticky residue on the backs of the photos. I can clean them, as needed, though there will be a small charge for such service.
You can put stacks of photos into large zip-lock bags, or simply separate them with pieces of cardboard or paper towels. You can put labels on each stack with a title of the event or location, etc. I will use those labels for your folders, and if you order a DVD Slide Show, each "chapter" will use those labels.
Scanning Old Photos: I use two types of scanners. I have a high-speed bulk scanner for photographs that are in good shape, with no tears, creases or folds. I also have a high-resolution flatbed scanner for your old, delicate photos. With a flatbed scanner, your photo simply lays flat on a glass plate, with a soft cover pressing it down gently to keep it flat. There is no potential for further damage to your photo.
My high-speed bulk scanner can also be used for scanning old photos, if they aren't already falling apart. I have a scanning sleeve that holds your photo safely, ensuring that it will not be scratched or jammed in the scanner.
My photo scanning services ensure your old photos will be kept safe, and that you will get the best scans possible.
I definitely can convert your large photos to digital. I can scan up to 8.5" x 13". For larger photos, I press the photo between glass and a solid backboard, then photograph the photo in stages. The individual photos are then aligned and merged in Photoshop. Please keep in mind there is an extra charge for this service. It is very labor intensive.
Yes! My scanning services also capture the backs of your photos, when writing or printing is present. This is included with a small extra fee. Unlike other photo scanning services, I do not scan the back of every photo. I only scan when important info is present, and I only charge the extra fee for those photos. Photo labs often print dates, batch numbers and other info on the backs of your printed photographs. I do not capture that information without your explicit request. I will happily capture handwritten notes and other important info.
Absolutely! I prefer it that way. It allows me to inspect your media and provide a very accurate quote, answer any of your questions, and get any special requests or important information from you.
My photo studio is in the Fairfield Bay Village Mall, right next to Eagle Bank, directly across from the Conference Center. We have a large parking lot for your convenience. I am normally in the office from 1:00pm to 6:00pm, Monday through Friday. Please feel free to call me at (501) 476-0501 to confirm.
Please take a few minutes to sort and separate your slides if you want the photos in any specific order or grouping. While sorting your slides, take out any that you don't need to have scanned. There's no need to pay for photographs that you will never use! Many times, photographers take multiple shots of the same subject. You will save money by only scanning the best one or two shots out of any series.
If your slides are in glass mounts, they must be removed before submission.
If your slides are in trays or carousels, you can remove them before submitting them for scanning. If you do not, I will charge you a small fee for removing them, and replacing them into your trays after scanning.
In general, it's best to stack your slides in groups of 50, and attach a label letting me know the subject, event or dates, etc. When I upload your photos to my online gallery site, I can group them according to your labels. Otherwise you will see "Group 1", "Group 2", and so on. That's no fun! Your photos will also be arranged by group label on your DVD or Flash Drive.
Labeling: You can put each stack in a ziplock bag, and mark the label text with a marker. You can carefully write a number on the top slide's mount, and give me a list on paper. Please do not use tape or sticky labels - they can damage your slide film.
Negatives should be delivered in the original accordion packaging, if any. Please do not remove them, as this can cause scratching and introduce dust, debris and fingerprints.
Negative strips are the best to work with. Please do not cut your negatives into individual frames. This incurs a higher cost as it becomes much more labor intensive.
Please do put your negatives in zip lock bags, labeled with your event, dates, or other information. I will group your photos according to those labels on your DVD, CD, Flash drive and/or the online gallery site.
Yes I do require a deposit before beginning to process your order. Please be prepared to leave a 25% deposit. You can pay with cash or check, PayPal.com (coming to the web site soon), or a credit card. The balance will be due upon delivery of your digital images.
It is important to properly package your media for shipping or dropping off in person.
First, be sure you protect your media from shipping damage.
Your media should be placed into zip-lock bags, whenever possible. Your zip-lock bags can then be placed into sturdy containers and boxed. Standard shipping boxes from the US Post Office are fine. Please always use sturdy cardboard boxes. Padded envelopes would likely be fine; however, you never know what will get tossed or stacked on top of your media!
Please keep your photographs flat. Do not place photos onto uneven layers of stacked slides or other items. It's best to put your photos at the bottom when sending mixed media. Separate the photos from slides or films with a piece of cardboard or other flat, sturdy material. Instead of cramming one box full, please consider using two boxes. Your media should be snug, but not compacted.
Any loose space in your boxes can be filled with bubble wrap, craft paper, newspaper or standard brown wrapping paper. Just don't let things slide around and rub against exposed media!
Dots Per Inch (DPI) is a widely misused term in digital imaging. DPI is used as a "catch-all" term for some very different measurements.
DPI only truly applies to printing with Ink Jet printers. It is the measurement of the number of ink drops placed on the paper.
DPI, as used in the real world, generally refers to the quality of the scan or image. A higher-resolution photo will have a higher "DPI". In scanning, when DPI is used in place of Samples Per Inch (SPI), a higher number results in a larger file size. As an example, a photo scanned at 300 DPI will result in a file size that is appropriate for sharing on the web and social media. The same photo scanned at 600 DPI will be quite large, and will need to be resized (made smaller) before sharing. For Archival prints, a higher DPI is appropriate. You can make larger prints with a higher resolution file. 300 DPI images can generally be printed at the same size they were scanned. E.G. a 4" x 6" photo scanned at 300 DPI can be printed at 4" x 6" without loss of detail or obvious pixelation. If you want to save your old photos in the best possible resolution, perhaps for later printing, you will want to have them scanned at 600 DPI (or even higher).
As a consumer, when you see DPI, PPI or SPI, you can consider them all the same thing. It's not technically correct, but it gets the job done 🙂